Adelphi (distilled at Glenrothes) 1990 20 year old, 58.6%

The nose is redolent with the smells of autumn jam — slowly stewing dark berry fruits — but there's a hint of hazelnut adding a drier edge alongside some waxed paper. As it opens, out comes argan oil. This constantly changing array of aromas is very Glenrothes, as is the vanilla lift when water is added, which comes with added cordite. The palate is very sweet, filled with fruit syrups and even some dried rose petal. The finish, long. £79