Aged Tequilas

For much of tequila’s history, barrel aging wasn’t a huge consideration—tequila was meant to be consumed young, with the spirit’s natural flavors un adulterated by wood. But as tequila moved up the ladder of respectability, distillers began to barrel-age their products. Today, aged expressions are an almost required part of a tequila distiller’s portfolio, and tequileros are pushing boundaries by trying different barrels, new techniques, and longer aging processes.

Tequila barrel aging dates as far back as 1800, according to some historians, but whether those barrels were used for aging or simply for storage is unclear. Regardless, the vast majority of tequila consumed well into the 20th century was blanco, or unaged. The first laws distinguishing aged from unaged tequila weren’t laid down in Mexico until 1964, and even then the only categories were blanco and añejo, or “aged,” without specifying time spent in the barrel. The situation began to change in 1968, when the laws governing tequila, also known as normas, were expanded to define re posado (rested) as a tequila barrel-aged between 2-12 months, while añejo represented a year or more of aging.

Lo and behold, tequila began to be appreciat ed as a sipping spirit that could stand alongside fine cognacs and whiskies, in large part due to the añejo expressions. The time in wood creates a flavor profile that’s more approachable for sipping—Ana María Romero, maestra tequilera of Mijenta Tequila, describes it as, “a smoother, more velvety product with a deeper relationship to the wood, which adds richer flavors of vanilla, cacao, butterscotch, and stone fruit.” As the luxury tequila market began to explode, tequila makers started experimenting with longer aging, necessitating the cre ation of a new official designation, extra añejo (denoting 3 years or more of barrel aging), in 2006.

Different Aging Spectrum

A 3 year old scotch whisky has barely begun its aging journey. Three year old bourbons and ryes do get bottled, but are generally considered pretty green. Three years is considered young even for whiskies aging in hot climates like Taiwan and Australia. So why can a tequila aged as little as a month be considered fully mature, while a 3 year old is extra-aged? Part of it has to do with Mexico’s hot weather, which ages spirits faster than the more temperate climes of Kentucky or perennially chilly Scotland. But it’s also due to the nature of tequila itself. Aging plays a different role for tequila, complementing it rather than completing it. “The terroir [climate, soil, and location] affects agave sugar levels and profile more than aging,” notes Carlos Andrés Ramirez of Tequila Avion.

“Due to its humidity and the weather, the [angels’ share] is higher in Mexico, reaching 6 to 8% in a year while the average in Scotland is 2%,” says Ramirez. So a 5 year old tequila is comparable to a 50 year old single malt scotch or a 20 year old bourbon. It’s difficult however, to age tequila well. “Too much time in oak obscures the agave notes that distin guish tequila from other spirits and can harm the tequila. It will lose those rich cooked and raw agave notes that are so important,” explains Romero.

Most brands age their tequilas in American oak, either new or bourbon barrels. Avion uses medium-toasted bourbon barrels from Tennessee, which impart “beautiful roasted coconut aromas, maple syrup, vanilla, and tobacco,” says Ramirez. More frequently, distillers are turning to other wood types and barrels that have held other spirits. El Tesoro, for instance, ages its Paradiso expression in French oak cognac barrels for 5 years. Wine barrel-finished tequilas have become more popular—Calirosa ages its tequilas in Califor nia red wine barrels for as little as 30 days for its Rosa Blanco and as long as 18 months for its añejo. Multiple woods and barrel types are no longer unheard of, either. Mijenta ages its Añejo Gran Reserva expression in four differ ent barrel types over an 18-month span. “With the American oak, we are looking to impart flavors of vanilla, roasted coconut, and cacao; from the French oak, orange peel, maple, and stone fruit,” says Romero. “From the cherry and acacia barrels, we are looking for flora notes of jasmine and gardenias.”

In recent years a new wrinkle has emerged in aged tequila: cristalino. Known as “añejo claro” and “joven” when the first expressions emerged in the early 2010s, cristalinos are añejo or extra-añejo tequilas that have been charcoal filtered to remove the color and most of the more tannic notes that come from barrel aging. One of the few whiskey equivalents to cristalino is the now discontinued Jim Beam’s Jacob’s Ghost, a charcoal-filtered aged whiskey. Rums like Bacardi’s Ron Superior are also aged and then filtered, with a similar flavor profile—light, slightly sweet, and easy to sip or mix. Don Julio kicked off the cristalino party in 2011 with its Don Julio 70 expression, and in recent years it’s proliferated. Brands like Qui and Maestro Dobel focus primarily on cristalinos, and more established brands like Herradura and 1800 have also been entering the fray. Ramirez, who recently launched Avion’s own cristalino, notes that cristalino is popular with drinkers who prefer smoother spirits.

For now, at least, tequila brands seem will ing to keep pushing the envelope with barrel aging, while still trying to retain the essen tial agave flavor. How far can the process go and still produce a spirit that’s recognizably tequila? “We are definitely seeing a trend toward longer barrel-aging times, as darker spirits have seen an increase in sales,” says Romero. “Many associate longer aging times with a more premium product.” However, she adds, “we want to be able to respect the traditions and DNA of the tequila.” Where it will go from here is anyone’s guess, but if the next 50 years of tequila’s history are anything like the last 50, it’ll be a fascinating and un predictable journey.

Barrel-Aged Tequilas to Try

Avión Reserva 44 Extra Añejo, 40%, $100
Aged for at least 36 months in bourbon barrels, which lend depth and richness without overwhelming the savory agave notes.

Calirosa Rosa Blanco, 40%, $50
The distinctive pink hue comes from a mere 30 days of aging in California cabernet barrels.

Casa Noble Añejo, 40%, $57
This is aged for a minimum of 2 years in new French oak that’s been toasted but not charred, giving it a flavor profile quite distinct from tequilas aged in new American oak or bourbon barrels.

Chinaco Añejo, 40%, $79
One of the first luxury tequilas, this is aged for 30 months to 3 years in a combination of French oak, English oak that had been previ ously used to age scotch, and bourbon barrels.

Don Julio 70, 40%, $54
The first cristalino tequila (known as “añejo claro” at the time) takes an 18 month old añejo and filters out the color. The flavor is changed considerably, too—it’s much lighter and more mellow than a typical añejo.

El Sativo Single Estate Añejo, 40%, $70
This sustainably focused brand makes a straightforward añejo, aged for 16 months in bourbon barrels.

El Tesoro Paradiso, 40%, $180
This is an extra añejo aged up to 5 years in French oak cognac barrels, unusual for a tequila. They also have an extra añejo aged more traditionally in bourbon barrels, and last year offered a limited release aged in Laphroaig barrels.

Fortaleza Reposado, 40%, $130
Made using the old-school tahona method, this Lowlands tequila is aged in American oak (said to be a combination of new and used barrels) for 6-8 months.

Herradura Reposado, 40%, $45
The first reposado tequila to be sold in the U.S., it’s aged for 11 months in new charred American oak.

Mijenta Añejo Gran Reserva, 40%, $200
Mijenta’s añejo expression is aged in four different casks over 18 months: American white oak, French oak, French acacia, and cherry.