Ardbeg The Rollercoaster 1981 Cask No. 1, 47.3%

Made in the Kildalton style at 12–15 ppm, the nose has fudge, butterscotch, dried fruit, sherry notes, a little wood ash, and lightly fragrant spices. It’s a soft soul, with fig, exotic spices, gummy cola bottles, rich sherry fruit, clove, treacle-baked ham, gingerbread, and light smoke on the back palate. A slightly waxy mouthfeel on the soothing finish, with dried vine fruit, brown sugar, and further hints of smoke. (€100,000; 143 2-bottle sets)