Aultmore 25 year old, 46%

A wild aromatic opening — anise, sweet cicely, even a hint of wormwood — with more oak than the 21 year old, but not in a dominating fashion, rather just a framing device. Still fresh and acidic, with touches of a bridal bouquet, freshly baked warm sponge cake, walnut flesh, and, with water, a little bread-and-butter pudding. The acidity gives it a zippy, clean palate zestiness with cumin and angelica. Beautifully balanced.£400