91

Score

Bårelegs, 46%

Price: 65 Issue: Winter 2022 Reviewer: Jonny McCormick Category: Single Malt Scotch

Fine smoke, sweet and light, with candied lemon, lemon curd, smoked grapefruit peel, and robust spices of pepper, aniseed, and fresh ginger root. The smoke is intense, clean, and layered. On sipping, there is lemon fudge, caramel, vanilla, and pepper, building up a good deal of smoke, with bacon fat creaminess, cocoa powder, ground hazelnut, and chocolate orange. Unpretentious, no-nonsense Islay whisky, and there’s nothing wrong with that.