BenRiach 35 year old, 42.5%

Price: $690 Issue: Spring 2015 Reviewer: Dave Broom

A venerable bottling from its proprietor, and there's no doubt from the nose that you're dealing with an ultra-mature whisky. Like going in to meet your aged grandfather who is sitting in his library surrounded by old books, with a little sunlight filtering through the drapes. In time, there's dried peach and envelope gum. The palate is wooded and concentrated, but it is dry and lacking in the required energy. Water stirs it into life, but kills the flavor.£450