BenRiach 40 year old, 50%

Price: $1,800 Issue: Winter 2007 Reviewer: John Hansell

Perhaps the oldest BenRiach on the market. I have great respect for whisky that has somehow managed to survive this many years without being bottled. If you want to taste a piece of history (which I can understand) and have unlimited funds, then go ahead and buy this. But, for the money, I prefer the BenRiach 25 year old (or even the 30 year old) to this whisky. Deeply layered oak -- from dried, spicy oak to juicy, damp oak. Notes of perfumed vanilla, roasted chestnut, and orange marmalade accentuate the oak. Pretty good for 40, but its best years are behind it.