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Score

Benrinnes 21 year old (Diageo Special Release 2014), 56.9%

Price: $400 Issue: Winter 2014 Reviewer: Dave Broom

Meaty, beaty, big, but only slightly bouncy. The nose is initially reminiscent of curried mutton with an added heathery earthiness and some distillery sulfur. It then dries into biltong/pemmican with some faint barley notes behind. The water adds a note of fresh coriander. Massive in the mouth, with raisin, roasting tins. It's a relief when water releases some surprisingly soft treacle toffee sweetness, but it's not quite enough to balance the massive meaty assault. (2,892 bottles)