
15 Peated Scotch Whiskies With Top Scores; Smoky Whiskey Season Is Here
March 18, 2024 –––––– David Fleming
Calling all peated scotch lovers! Here’s a list of 15 peated scotch whiskies that scored well with our tasting panel—some new, some from last year, and some old standbys. One that was not included because of its limited nature and high price ($5,000) is Talisker Glacial Edge, a 45 year old expression that’s among the best we’ve tasted in recent times. While the list includes some pricy whiskies, they are worth seeking out for a pour at a bar or restaurant. And many are within reach. While Islay leads this list, which is to be expected in any conversation about peated scotch, a surprising number are from elsewhere in Scotland.
95 Highland Park Cask Strength Single Malt (Batch 4), 64.3%, $100
Our No.-2 whisky of the year in the 2023 rankings. While this batch might be hard to find, any cask-strength Highland Park is highly likely to be a treat. Unencumbered by an age statement, master whisky maker Gordon Motion painted Batch 4 with flavor in mind, using a palette of sherry-seasoned European and American oak, bourbon, and refill casks, then adding port casks for a new streak of flavor. This one integrates expressive notes of pink grapefruit and exotic spices within a deep well of citrus, dark chocolate, and heathery peat smoke.
95 Octomore 14.1 Edition 5 year old Single Malt, 59.6%, $220
On the nose, Octomore 14.1 delivers layers and layers of dense peat: sweet smoke with grilled pineapples and hibiscus tea, phenolic peat with peeled-out tires, medicine cabinet, a distinctly oily rubber, and savory charred aromas like a beach bonfire. The palate, while still driving home the peat, is nimble and zesty with oranges and lemon, toasted peppercorns, and a heavy dose of charred grains. The finish is long and much softer, with zippy citrus taking the lead.
95 Torabhaig The Legacy Series Allt Gleann Single Malt, 61.1%, $90
From Torabhaig Distillery on the Isle of Skye. Salt air, light smoke, chocolate, and earthy notes of heather on the nose, along with ginger spice and cherry. A fruity palate, fresh raspberries, vanilla, and aged oak. The peat is beautifully interwoven, with a balance of berries and light smoke, and earthiness followed by a long, fruity, flavorful finish. Gentle yet complex, carrying a high proof with impressive subtlety and balance.
94 Benriach The Smoky Twelve Single Malt, 46%, $65
Apples, pound cake, treacle, almond nougat, and vanilla aromas set up the palate's inherent sweetness, but pay attention to the note of oyster shell minerality and wafting woodsmoke, so well-integrated as to be hardly noticeable—at least until you take a sip. Sweet smoke drifts over toasted almond, Golden Delicious apple, cinnamon, and Swiss Miss hot cocoa, all sprinkled with smoked salt. It finishes with grilled apple and flavored tobacco, the smoke persistent but never ashy, and a silky texture that's as gentle as a caress.
93 Compass Box Peat Monster Cask Strength: Origin Story Blended Malt, 56.7%, $125
Salty kelp, mild antiseptic, lemon oils, ground black pepper, smoked mackerel, vanilla ice cream, warm cinnamon, and heavy peat smoke assault the nose. Sweet cookie dough, lemon, mixed spice, pepper, clove, ground almond, burnt butter, and a powerful peppery phase with toffee, banana, vanilla, and cinnamon in its wake. Soaring in intensity, there’s solace in bringing down the strength; pear, green apple, more smoke, and creamy vanilla are the compensation.
93 Lagavulin 12 year old The Ink of Legends Single Malt (Diageo Special Releases 2023), 56.4%, $170
Very pale and peaty, with lime zest, smoked lemon, green gooseberry, brine, and cooked agave aromas, the smoke and tequila cask notes are well-balanced, sharp, and invigorating. Lime, agave, caramel, and vanilla sweetness, with smoke on the back of the palate, cooked plum fruitiness, and a growing sense of minerality, green herbal notes, and zesty lime. Be generous with the water; this Lagavulin can take it.
92 Ardbeg Traigh Bhan 19 year old Single Malt(Batch 05), 46.2%, $350
Plenty of peat up front, along with whiffs of vanilla, citrus, and tobacco before the maritime notes kick in—dried seaweed, sea salt, and brine. Vanilla and lemon tart on the palate, with light soapiness. It’s delicate, sweet, creamy, and dessert-like. The finish is flavorful with Creamsicle and more vanilla, and the peat reappears. Very balanced overall—not a peat bomb—with subtle sweetness and depth, and peat in a strong but supporting role.
92 The Hearach Single Malt, 46%, $90
The Isle of Harris Distillery’s debut is a marvelous, lightly peated dram with aromas of sweet orange peel, lime zest, pear, heathery peat smoke, vanilla, jellied candy, and floral top notes. The concoction has sweet fruity notes, citrus, gentle smokiness, and flavors of grapefruit, lime Jell-O, vanilla, honey, pepper, and subtle sherry, becoming rich and creamier with vanilla fudge, stone fruits, walnut, and cacao, ending with a pleasantly spicy finish.
92 Kilchoman PX Sherry Cask Matured Single Malt, 50%, $130
An exquisite combination of sherry fruit and peat smoke, with aromas of sultana, allspice, aniseed, nutmeg, cigar wrapper, Brazil nut, and licorice. The indulgent notes continue uninterrupted on the palate, with muscovado sugar, chocolate brownie, malt, and zested orange, winding down with rich dark chocolate and dried vine fruits into a soothing finish of raisin, peat smoke, and chocolate. (1,980 bottles for the U.S.)
92 Laphroaig 10 year old Sherry Oak Single Malt, 48%, $90
The nose is earthy and spicy with mature oak, aged peat, melted caramel, potpourri, sherry, candle wax, musty old library, and wool-filled closet. On the palate it's rich and concentrated, creamy and thick, with chocolate cake and warm chocolate syrup, burnt coffee beans, cooked dark fruits, and medicinal notes, with a great touch of peated sweetness at the end. The peat and sherry oak create a remarkably subtle, yet delightfully complex effect.
91 Duncan Taylor 19 year old Bowmore Octave 1998 Single Malt, 53.9%, $360
Fragrant with honey, the peat smoke is wrapped around aromas of parma violets, taffy, lemon peel, sea spray, dried seaweed, and lighter nutty sherry notes. It has a light and nimble texture with flavors of lemon curd and fruity sherry, with billowing smoke, vanilla frosting, smoked almond, and flavors of more fino or amontillado-style sherries. This octave cask squarely lands twin punches of smoke and sherry.
91 Port Charlotte 10 year old, 50%, $75
Distilled from Scottish barley, this is the first permanent age-statement Port Charlotte bottling. First and second-fill American oak and French wine casks were used for aging. Rock pools, lemon juice, caramel, but little overt peat on the nose. The palate boasts big orchard fruit notes, smoky coconut, and brine. Again, the peat is quite muted. Long and spicy in the drying, peaty finish.
91 Talisker The Wild Explorador Single Malt (Diageo Special Releases 2023), 59.7%, $135
A Jekyll and Hyde Talisker; the white port is noticeable first, soaking up the saltiness of seashell-decorated sandcastles and spices to leave a dry, crisp nose, with later floral and fruity notes joining a peaty tang of green herbal and oily fish aromas. Red apple, cherry, cranberry, raspberry, and morello cherry flavors become dry and mouth-drawing, before breaking into a salted caramel creaminess with banoffee pie and a forceful spicy finish.
90 Elements of Islay Beach Bonfire Blended Malt, 54.5%, $110
Composed of new oak, bourbon, refill, and sherry casks, the nose has fruitcake, dates, black tea, dried sage, and subtle mixed spices under a broad canopy of breezy smoke. Syrupy sweet date and plum meet a burst of peppery spices, settling to a combination of herbal flavors, candied chestnut, sugared plum, and sultana, with a hint of vanilla and a mouth-coating finish of aniseed and herbal notes. (480 bottles for U.S.)
90 Isle of Skye 8 year old Blend, 40%, $20
Aromas of crushed peppercorn, peat smoke, sweet toffee, vanilla, chocolate chip cookies, and some dunnage earthiness. Flavors of heather honey, caramel, lemon zest, and nougat, with pepper, ginger, honeycomb, dried citrus, and background peat smoke, which is more ashy in the finish, with honey, caramel, and dried apple. It’s feisty and not as smooth as the older variants, but for a dram packed with flavor, this youngster is hard to beat.
And We Should Mention:
96 Talisker Glacial Edge 45 year old, 49.8%, $5,000
This one is now tough to find, and exorbitantly priced, but it’s a remarkable whisky. Seasoned wood on the nose, cedar and salty oak, and lime. Beautifully fresh and perfumed for such an old whisky, with a bit of tobacco, citrus, and semi-ripe banana. Tobacco on the palate and more sea influence, brine, and seaweed, but also sweet with honey, lemon, and brown sugar. Balanced and deep, with a long finish. Very bright and lively. Uber-aged scotches can sometimes disappoint, but this is an exceptional dram.