Tempest to the world, Dorus Mor in the U.S., this has an intensely salty start that's

like being slapped by a wave on Bowmore's harbor wall. That marine note

continues: samphire, clams with a squeeze of lemon. Water brings out wet clay.

The palate is equally briny, but with a sprig of lavender, then soft fruits

wreathed in peat smoke. It's tense and coiled, with real energy when neat, but

it's best like that, so deal with the heat.