86

Score

Chieftain's (distilled at Port Ellen), 1982 vintage, 25 year old, 43%

Price: $280.00 Issue: Fall 2010 Reviewer: John Hansell

Port Ellen whiskies are getting pretty rare (and expensive). This one is softer and less vibrant than others that I've tasted, but still very much Port Ellen, and still enjoyable! Notes of coal tar, rooty licorice, toffee, dark chocolate, and nougat, with background citrus gumdrops, ginger, brine, seaweed, peat bog, and damp oak. I think bottling this at 46% without chill-filtering, or perhaps even cask-strength, would have helped the flavors “zing" (and elevated my rating).