Light amber. The initial impression is one of bulk. There are heavy florals — think lilies and stewed white fruit, and just-overripe banana — but this is given a mysterious extra heft by an underpinning of a light meatiness, accompanied by a tiny lift of (good) sulfur. The palate is, unsurprisingly, thick and creamy with huge fruit that fills the mouth. A highly physical, old-style Speyside dram with classic distillery character. A statement whisky that is a must-try.