Craigellachie 17 year old, 46%

Price: $132 Issue: Winter 2014 Reviewer: Dave Broom

Golden, lifted, and aromatic. The fleshy ripeness of the 13 year old is still there, but that little sulfur edge has now gone, revealing the ripe fruits massing underneath. Now you find pineapple and light chalk. The flowers have become daffodils and bluebells rather than lily, along with a soft, vanilla ice cream plumpness. Sweet and full, and just a shade lighter than the 13 year old. Muscly, but sweet; that's the paradox of the Craigellachie character.£83