87

Score

Crooked Water Old Hell Roaring Double Barreled Straight, 45%

Price: $50 Issue: Summer 2019 Reviewer: Susannah Skiver Barton

This undergoes secondary maturation in heavily toasted and smoked new charred oak barrels, but you wouldn't know it from the delicate nose, redolent with white flowers, Asian pear, cardamom, toasted almonds, and milk chocolate; the only hint is a bit of burnt sugar and dry leaves. On the palate, those special barrels reveal themselves with flavors of cedar, black pepper, chipotle, and barbecue potato chips, as well as apple, pecan, and milk chocolate. The finish has chili-chocolate and long, polished oak.