92

Score

Dewar's Signature, 43%

Price: $200 Issue: Summer 2004 Reviewer: John Hansell

Johnnie Walker Blue, meet Dewar's Signature. Signature is Dewar's introduction into the ultra-premium blended scotch category. Like Johnnie Walker Blue, Signature bears no age statement, but I'm told that a 27 year old Aberfeldy is the heart of the blend. The first release consists only of 1,000 individually numbered bottles, and they're only available in New York City. I'm always a little skeptical of very expensive blends that come in fancy packages. There are some very good, reasonably priced blends in the 10-20 year old range, and the expensive ones are often only marginally better, if that. But I like this whisky a whole lot better than the standard Dewar's White Label, and it is also superior to Dewar's 12 year old-a whisky which I find to be quite enjoyable. While maintaining the Dewar's profile-nicely balanced-this whisky offers greater depth, maturity, and complexity without being too woody-a creamy, malty foundation makes sure of that. The whisky expresses a rich, honeyed maltiness which combines nicely with notes of golden raisins, vanilla, caramel, and crème brûlée, with just a hint of spicy oak notes for complexity. Signature is a different style when compared to Johnnie Walker Blue-it's more elegant and bashful-but, like Blue, I put Signature on my short list of the finest blends on the market.