88

Score

Exclusive Malts (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 26 year old 1987 Cask # 2784, 47.8%

Price: $230 Issue: Winter 2014 Reviewer: Geoffrey Kleinman

Peated whiskies definitely have a dropping off point where they become too old and tired, and the nose for this one would indicate it's past its prime, with gravel, rubbery smoke, and raisin. On the palate it's a different story, as ashy smoke combines with raisin and rancio, turning the peat age detriment into an asset. Strangely alluring, it's like sitting on a park bench next to a weathered old man who ends up having a real tale to tell. (U.S. only)