90

Score

Four Gate River Kelvin Straight Rye, 56.6%

Price: $175 Issue: Fall 2020 Reviewer: David Fleming

Initially, the nose is neutral and alcohol-laden, but notes of lemon, grape, and dried apricots gradually emerge, along with sandalwood, licorice, and herbaceousness. Spice, dark chocolate, bitter orange, and lemon show on the palate, as well as oak char, espresso, roasted walnuts, and herbs. More dark chocolate and spices ride on a long finish. Smooth but powerful, with light fruit notes emerging to balance refined herbs and spice. (1,382 bottles)