92

Score

Glenfarclas Family Casks 1988 (Cask #434), 53.4%

Price: $580 Issue: Fall 2014 Reviewer: Dave Broom

Quite earthy, with orris root, burlap, and dunnage warehouse notes. Distinctly meaty—Bovril (beef stock)—then cedary. This untamed edge—think Mortlach or Benrinnes—dominates the palate, but the cask (a refill butt) isn't overstating its presence. There's espresso on the finish. Here's Glenfarclas taking a ramble on the wild side. If your preference is for more robust styles, then look no further.£345