Glenlivet Founder's Reserve, 40%

This new NAS might surprise those who recall the Chivas Bros. “Age Matters” campaign, but that's whisky for you. The initial impression is of a fresh maltiness, sweet hay, and fresh porridge oats, then comes sawn oak, but it opens into pineapple, becoming more obviously Glenlivet. The palate is pretty and light, but seems a bit hollow in the middle, making the whole package slightly insubstantial. Water enhances and sweetens the nose, but deepens that mid-palate hole.£30