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90

Score

Gordon & MacPhail 1954 (distilled at Glen Grant), 40%

Price: 2020 Issue: Fall 2017 Reviewer: Gavin Smith Category: Single Malt Scotch

This veteran expression was fully matured in first-fill sherry butts. Fragrant on the nose, with black treacle, prunes, raisins, lanolin, bung cloths, and polished oak. Big stewed fruit and warm leather notes on the palate, soon reeled in by spicy tannic oak, plus licorice and aniseed, though a stubborn dusty fruitiness persists. The finish is lengthy and mouth-drying, with lots of dark oak. A lovely example of its kind. £1,575