Hanyu 5 of Diamonds 2000, 57%

Price: $88.00 Issue: Summer 2013 Reviewer: Dave Broom

This, with finishing time in sherry wood, is the most straightforward of the quartet, showing lovely touches of Seville orange rather than heavy dried fruits. With water there's a slight meaty/new leather note that seems a more natural companion to Hanyu's density, here with an extra earthy note from black cherries, juniper, and star anise. Water triggers tannins but there's enough fruit here to balance. The most successful of the four, with the wood in balance. ¥8,500