70

Score

Kansas Clean Distilled, 40%

Price: $30 Issue: Spring 2012 Reviewer: Lew Bryson

Clear, slight golden hue; as expected from a 7% straight whiskey/93% grain neutral spirit “spirit whiskey.” Faint nose of sweet caramel corn in a hot bloom of estery alcohol. Thickly sweet in the mouth, with barely a hint of whiskey, like a badly-made cocktail or an ill-conceived flavored vodka. While there are no glaring flaws in the make, this is simply a bad idea. Light whiskey failed once, in the 1970s, and for good reasons. Those reasons haven't changed.