91

Score

Kentucky Owl Confiscated Straight Bourbon, 48.2%

Price: $125 Issue: Fall 2019 Reviewer: Susannah Skiver Barton

The nose is spiced—cinnamon, allspice, clove, pepper—and rich with cooked fruit—blueberry jam, stewed plums, pomegranate molasses—as well as roasted peanuts, vanilla, and oak. In the mouth, there's more liveliness, with Big Red gum, cherry pie, blackberry cobbler, peanuts, and cinnamon-apple coffee cake. It wraps up beautifully, with chili-chocolate, roasted nuts, and cigar end. Kentucky Owl doesn't disclose the ages of the bourbons used in this bottling, but the balance of maturity on the nose and verve on the palate work to excellent effect.