85

Score

Kornog Taouarc'h Kentan 14 BC, 46%

Price: $79 Issue: Fall 2014 Reviewer: Jonny McCormick

If you cannot wait for Jean Donnay to start distilling at Gartbreck on Islay, console yourself with this Celtic whisky made by the sea, with malt peated to 35-40 ppm. The nose has hard, dry peat, cold charred logs, and heather twigs, but enough creamy sweetness to keep it buoyant. It shimmers and twists on the tongue, showing shades of light and dark. Nuts, treacle, licorice, and raisins emerge, though the structure shows its youth. Dry, sooty finish.€60