Koval Single Barrel (No. ZT3W42), 47%

Price: $50 Issue: Winter 2020 Reviewer: Susannah Skiver Barton

The unusual use of millet as the secondary grain for this bourbon creates an utterly unexpected flavor profile, closer to the familiar notes of rye. It works well, but the blind drinker may be taken unawares. Freshness dominates the nose, with balsam bough, spruce branches, mint toothpaste, and Pine-Sol, and it pervades the palate too, which is green and peppy with arugula, spearmint, pine, black pepper, and lemon. The finish shows bitter oak but remains persistently piney and fresh.