92

Score

Lagavulin 21 year old 2012 Special Release, 52%

Price: $624 Issue: Winter 2012 Reviewer: Dave Broom

Lagavulin from a first-fill sherry butt? There's unusual. This is huge, fluxing, and complex, mixing saddles and dark chocolate, pu-erh tea and smothered kiln, geranium and velvet, gamey venison and treacle. The smoke is integrated, the fires ember-like, the oak there but not oppressively so. Massive, dense, layered, and complex, this needs time to open. In short, a distillation of Islay and up alongside last year's Jazz Festival bottling.