92

Score

Lonach (distilled at Strathisla), 42 year old, 41.1%

Price: $205.00 Issue: Winter 2009 Reviewer: John Hansell

I wish the owners of Strathisla would put out older expressions of their whisky, and here’s why. Layers of sweetness (caramel in particular, but also honey and toffee) dovetail beautifully with an array of lush fruit (orange, apricot, golden raisin, fruit gumdrops). All this is underpinned by subtle dried spice (cinnamon, cool mint, nutmeg) and teasing oak resin on the finish. What’s most impressive here isn’t the laundry list of flavors (although they certainly are there), but rather the balance. This, and its lovely depth, with no signs of lethargy. Impressive!