This laudable effort of comparative whiskies explores the effect of age by combining four parcels of stock in different proportions. The older whiskies produce an enticing nose of marmalade-encrusted ham on the bone, grist, and worn sandpaper. It's sugary sweet with ripe melon before the sherry takes control and dishes out cherry candy and papaya. Held in the mouth, it develops layers of creamy latte and milk chocolate as the fruit fades. More to get your teeth into here.£54