Matsui The Peated, 48%

Price: $90 Issue: Fall 2019 Reviewer: Jonny McCormick

Satisfyingly smoky, with noticeable structure and complexity: grilled fish, burning aromatic grasses, cocoa powder, and jellied and tropical fruit flavors. Soft pulpy fruits to taste, with red apple, nippy ginger and pepper spices, a surge of orange and mango flavors, and a backdraft of smoke. The nostrils still detect a delightful kipperiness. Smoke writhes like a serpent on the finish, sliding off walls dripping with sweet tropical fruits. (3,972 bottles)