McMenamins Billy Whiskey, 43.5%

Price: $35 Issue: Summer 2015 Reviewer: Geoffrey Kleinman

An oddball whiskey by all accounts, with a very high 72.2% of wheat in the mashbill, distillation on an old farmhouse cognac still, and aging in a little Oregon barn in 63-gallon new oak barrels. The result is a strange, disjointed whiskey that starts out pillow-soft with wheat and caramel, and then dramatically shifts to raw oak, nougat, and cinnamon stick. The flavors in Billy don't integrate well: they're like a jazz band severely out of step.