91

Score

Ninety Decades of Richness 20 year old, 45%

Price: $40 Issue: Spring 2015 Reviewer: Davin de Kergommeaux

Tempting vanilla custard with swirls of orange marmalade and just-burnt toffee. Icing sugar, red cedar, and oak with pithy tannins and sizzling spices: pepper, hot cinnamon, and ginger. Then a fruitiness unfolds into crisp Granny Smith apples and chewy jujubes. Gradually, the layers peel back, revealing delicate hints of buttered popcorn, mealy marzipan, candy cane, and burley tobacco. The subtle earthiness of cooked corncobs complements sour fruits and sweet spices. Huge, complex, and beautifully balanced. (Canada only) C$50