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JEFF HARRIS / FOOD AND DRINK STYLING BY TYNA HOANG
Although modern practices from greenhouse farming to fast-freight shipping and advanced techniques for food preservation mean that we are now able to indulge in just about any kind of food at any time of year, there remain certain dishes and ingredients that have an unquestionable seasonality. Rich stew in the depth of winter, for example, watermelon in summer, and pumpkin-spiced everything in autumn; all may be consumed year-round, but are just better when enjoyed in season.
And so it is with the sugary treats so specifically suited for the hottest days of summer—Popsicles, Fudgsicles, and Creamsicles.
Because they are often seen as being purely for kids, these frozen treats may not be on many adult shopping lists. But given the right circumstances, they can be every bit as satisfying as when we were young. And when partnered with the proper beverage accompaniment, they can be even better!
Before digging into pairings though, it is important to note that some spirits simply don’t play well with some of these flavors. A single pot still Irish whiskey I tried alongside a cherry Popsicle, for example, created a taste experience akin to sipping on children’s cough syrup. So we must choose wisely.
As Fudgsicles are almost ice cream-like in texture, with a creamy mouthfeel much like a frozen chocolate milkshake, it seemed likely they would be the easiest to match up with a whisky, and indeed they were. As most bourbons are very milk chocolate-friendly, choosing one that is a bit mild in character, so that its flavor doesn’t overpower the chocolate, was an easy pick. Slightly less satisfying, but still highly enjoyable, was pairing the Fudgsicle with a cask-strength bourbon like Elijah Craig Barrel Proof and allowing the melting chocolate to dilute the whiskey in the mouth.
Creamsicle is a relatively common tasting note found in whisky, referencing the flavor of the original orange version. But pairing the frozen treat with a whisky of that description proved to be too much of a good thing, as it overwhelmed the palate with cloying orange. Far better was a single malt scotch with a relatively subtle orange character, more pith and peel than juice, which better allows the character of whisky and creamy fruit to play off one another.
The orange, cherry, and grape flavors of the Popsicle variety box each required a whisky with a somewhat split personality; fruity enough to partner with the bold flavor of the ice as it melts in the mouth, yet sufficiently mild to not overwhelm the cold-muted subtlety of the Popsicle’s palate entry. Wine cask-finished single malts proved delightful partners, especially with a grape Popsicle, while the soft fruitiness of a lighter Canadian whisky such as Crown Royal, or better still, the more robust but still reserved Crown Royal Black, mixes almost chameleon-like with most flavors of Popsicle, absorbing the fruit of the ice into the character of the whisky.
Whisky and Frozen Treat Pairings To Try
Glenfarclas 12 year old single malt scotch with a Creamsicle
The whisky has a soft orange character that embraces the creamy citrus of the Creamsicle, which in turn accents the orange of the whisky.
Michter’s US*1 bourbon with a Fudgsicle
As a relatively subdued bourbon, Michter’s is able to complement rather than overpower the Fudgsicle, while the latter brings forward the chocolate in the bourbon.
Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban single malt scotch with a grape Popsicle
As much as the whisky offers lovely, rich port notes on its own, they become even fuller and more robust when paired with this Popsicle flavor.