Pairing Whiskey With Salmon en Papillote

Salmon is one of the most versatile proteins in the kitchen, and depending on how it’s prepared, it can easily and unexpectedly be paired with a wide range of whiskies. Matt Sussman, owner and wine director of Table, Donkey and Stick and Bar Parisette, both in Chicago, is a fan of unexpected pairings that frame both the food and drink in new and novel ways.

“What I love about good pairings is how they can surprise you, revealing new dimensions and flavors in a dish, as well as the accompanying beverage,” he explained. “For most people, whisky isn’t the first pairing they may think of when salmon is on the menu, but [it] complements the fish so well, elevating and adding so much depth of flavor to a product that is now supermarket ubiquitous.”

This salmon recipe, by Bar Parisette chef Madalyn Durrant, is fantastic with whiskey, particularly the dram and cocktail that Sussman provided.

Salmon en Papillote

Serves 4

• 4 6 oz. skinless salmon fillets
• 1 lb. asparagus, trimmed
• 1 lb. heirloom carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise and blanched
• 8 Yukon gold potatoes, quartered and boiled
• 1 recipe Café de Paris butter (see below)

Fold a 16 x 24 inch sheet of parchment paper in half and trace the shape of half a heart. Cut along the drawn line and unfold the parchment. Place one quarter of the vegetables and potatoes in a compact pile to the right of the fold. Place a few small cubes of Café de Paris butter on top of the vegetables. Lay salmon fillet on top. Cover top of fillet with more Café de Paris butter.

Fold parchment paper and align edges. Beginning at the top of the heart, tightly fold edges of parchment to create a tight seal, working all the way around to the tail of the heart. When you reach the tail, keep folding over and pinch the end, then tuck it back under the folded edge. Repeat for each salmon fillet. Place the four packets on a cookie sheet. Bake at 375°F for 10-14 minutes, depending on thickness of fillets. To serve, cut open the packages with scissors or slit with a knife.

Note: Chef Durrant recommends using the heart-shaped parchment to cook, but you can also fold the parchment paper into a rectangle and tightly seal all the edges.

Café de Paris Butter

• 1 stick salted butter, cut into 8 pieces and softened
• 1/2 medium shallot, sliced thin
• 2 cloves of garlic, sliced thin
• Leaves from 2 thyme stems
• 1 tsp. Madras curry powder (or more to taste)
• 1/2 tsp. chile flakes
• 1 Tbsp. chopped tarragon
• 1 anchovy fillet (or 1 tsp. anchovy paste)
• 11/2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

Melt 2 Tbsp. butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the sliced shallot, garlic, thyme leaves, curry powder, and chile flakes. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the shallots and garlic are soft and curry is fragrant. Transfer to a blender or food processor, and add the tarragon, anchovy fillet, and Worcestershire sauce; blend until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and stir in remaining butter until fully incorporated. If making in advance, store in an airtight container for up to 1 week, or freeze for up to 3 months.

COCKTAIL PAIRING

The Fox

“This cocktail is a riff on the Vieux Carré,” says Sussman. “We really like the complexity and depth that the split base of rye and armagnac bring to the table, and we usually have a cocktail on the menu using that as the jumping-off point while playing with the other ingredients. The additional herbal, spice, and bitter notes from the Punt e Mes and Amaro Nonino bring layers of flavor that mirror [the curry powder], matching the richness and aromatic depth of the café de Paris butter and the fattiness of the salmon.”

• 3/4 oz. Rittenhouse (or other bonded rye)
• 3/4 oz. armagnac
• 3/4 oz. Punt e Mes vermouth
• 1/4 oz. Amaro Nonino
• 2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters
• 2 dashes Angostura bitters
• Lemon twist for garnish

Stir all ingredients with ice in a mixing glass. Strain into an ice-filled rocks glass. Express a lemon zest twist and use the twist as garnish.

NEAT POUR

Westland Flagship American Single Malt

“For a neat pour we would pair Westland Flagship American single malt, a pioneer and driving force in the development of single malt whiskey in the U.S.,” explains Sussman. “Westland does a great job crafting a spirit that manages to be rich with malt flavor yet delicate. The curry notes and richness from the salmon bring out additional layers of spice in the whiskey, while the whiskey accentuates the warming, palate-saturating nature of this salmon preparation.”