Port Askaig 19 year old, 58.6%

London-based specialist The Whisky Exchange won't reveal where its main Islay brand is distilled, though the smart money is on a distillery not that far away from the ferry terminal that gives it its name. This expression is less phenolic than you might expect; there's more rapeseed oil than smoke, but it does have a nori wrap shoreline character. The palate is discreet, with pineapple and creaminess leading the way toward a bonfire made of old fishboxes. £60