Prima & Ultima Port Ellen 1978 43 year old, 53.4%

This has distinctly salty aromas, plus cinnamon, soft oak, cedar, subtle maritime notes, lemon shortbread, and brown sugar. The smoke is generous but unobtrusive: a beach bonfire of driftwood and fish boxes, any peatiness seemingly long gone. The oily mouthfeel has sweetness expressed as strawberries, dark toffee, fig roll, raisin, brine, and smoke. Water enhances that incredible strawberry note and adds a touch more smoke. A strawberry Port Ellen? Fancy that. (413 bottles; price per 8-bottle set)