90

Score

Signatory 'Unchillfiltered' (distilled at Cragganmore), 15 year old, 1989 vintage, 46%

Price: $59.00 Issue: Summer 2005 Reviewer: John Hansell

Independent bottlings of Cragganmore are hard to come by, and this one is a beauty. Cragganmore is not rich, heavy, or sweet like many Speyside whiskies. This one is medium-bodied, yet firm. It is clean on the palate throughout (with a brief honeyed vanilla note before becoming dry), and it is loaded with spice and dried fruits that continue to evolve. Long, lingering, finish. The decision to forego chill-filtering certainly reveals more of this whisky’s subtle, yet persistent, complexity.