Single Malts of Scotland 20 year old Ardbeg Single Cask (Distilled in 2001; Cask No. 1-93), 51.8%

Price: $600 Issue: Winter 2020 Reviewer: Susannah Skiver Barton

At first whiff, the nose is classic Islay peat: kelp and kippers, with the rubbery pop of new vinyl couch cushions. Add a little water, and fresh lemon and grapefruit burst from the glass: a welcome surprise. The oily palate highlights both—abundant saline peat and zippy citrus—with a tingle of white pepper that lingers in the nose well into the finish, which also has roasted walnuts, nori, ash, and oak. (192 bottles; U.S. exclusive)