94

Score

Single Malts of Scotland 21 year old Ardmore 1998 Single Cask (Cask No. 750753), 50.2%

Price: $240 Issue: Summer 2020 Reviewer: Susannah Skiver Barton

Exhibit A for never judging a whisky by its color: This straw-pale malt shows depth and complexity many sherry-dark whiskies would envy. The nose is briny and smoky, with a seaweed character; lemon poppyseed muffin and almond cake are present without water. Add a few drops, however, and fresh orchard fruit emerges, sweet and clean, and carries into the rounded, silky palate where it mingles with salt water, black pepper, a squeeze of lemon, and smoky peat. Good length on the finish, which has oak, nuts, and cigar wrapper. A paragon of balance. (240 bottles)