94

Score

Single Malts of Scotland 23 year old Imperial Single Cask (Distilled in 1997; Cask No. 2798), 45.4%

Price: $335 Issue: Winter 2020 Reviewer: Susannah Skiver Barton




Spirit, not cask, drives this whisky's character, with bright notes of lemon and lime, green apple candy, guava, vanilla, and ginger nut cookies creating an inviting and zesty nose. More lemon and lime, plus tangerine, on the palate, along with lively spices—ginger, white pepper, and cinnamon—toasted almonds, baking chocolate, and leather. With water, the profile flips as spices turn savory and chocolate and nuts take on a sweeter tone; the transformation is unexpected, but lovely. Tobacco, coffee bean, and leathery oak on the finish. (144 bottles; U.S. exclusive)