
Spring 2023 Editors' Choice: Kentucky Owl, Morris, Keeper's Heart
April 4, 2023 –––––– Whisky Advocate
In each issue of Whisky Advocate, the editors select three whiskies they consider to be the most impressive, based on score, price, and availability. For Spring 2023, our Editors' Choice selections include a bourbon whiskey with Japanese influence, a muscat barrel-finished Australian single malt, and a blend of Irish and American whiskeys. Check out the complete Buying Guide for all whiskies reviewed in the Spring 2023 issue. Kentucky Owl Takumi Edition, 92 points, 50%, $150
Creamy caramel syrup, well-spiced apple pie, brown sugar, and a burst of cherry make for an enticing nose. Stay awhile, and more aromas emerge: light char is joined by lemon pound cake, baked apples, and vanilla fudge. The palate is silky smooth and offers raspberry jam, maple syrup, coconut flakes, more apples, and hot cinnamon spice; with water, it stays just as enjoyable, if a little less heated. The finish packs a baking spice punch and lingers on and on.—Julia HigginsMorris Single Malt Muscat Barrels, 92 points, 48%, $90
Aromas of raisins soaked in sweet syrup, hazelnut, peppercorn, plum, and preserved strawberries, a result of a secondary maturation in their own muscat barrels after initial maturation in French and American oak wine barrels also from Morris of Rutherglen wineries. Syrupy in the mouth, with dark sugars, prune, raisin, cough syrup, and nippy clove, the flavors remain resolutely bold to the end, adding molasses, dried fig, and stewed fruit to finish.—Jonny McCormickKeeper’s Heart Irish + American 110 Proof, 90 points, 55%, $45
Irish grain and single pot still whiskeys blended with American rye. There is a dill pickle and white vinegar note on the nose that gives way to light fruitiness: white peaches, juicy pears, and green apple. The fruit turns darker on the palate, with blueberries, plums, and raisins. It’s a bit gamey, with a clear personality, creamy texture, and good buzzy heat. Dark berries, barrel char, and black pepper on the finish. It’s unusual but worthwhile.—Ted Simmons