This hothead stomps around the place, lashing out the peaty punches, but this raw power comes at the expense of balance. Coal scuttles, crumbly compost, smoked grass, chocolate ganache, and aromas of pit-cooked, blackened joints of pork. A thin medley of lemon, grapefruit, and orange segments is smothered by dense plumes of smoke, even more peaty with a dash of water, and it billows its way to a finish of chalky, fizzy candy round a bonfire. Imagine a smoked Trebor refresher. (964 bottles)£40