89

Score

That Boutique-y Whisky Company Paul John (Batch 1), 55.5%

Price: $129 Issue: Spring 2016 Reviewer: Jonny McCormick

Thick treacle, chocolate glaze, sooty fireplaces, spearmint, coal dust, roasted hazelnut, charcoal logs, and earthen warehouse floors make quite an impression. It's shot through with mouth-puckering tart juiciness, plum, fig, and smoke, and though it becomes fatter and richer, the ashy core continues to blow until it finishes, leaving behind char and cocoa. Water provokes some juicy apple notes and sweetens the finish, but despite the ABV, you should experience this at cask strength. Ride the bull! (148 bottles) £89