86

Score

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Port Dundas) 25 year old 1991, 53.6%

Price: $175 Issue: Winter 2016 Reviewer: Jonny McCormick

Vanilla ice cream drizzled in caramel and speared with a couple of wafers. Ground hazelnut, faint dashes of cinnamon, and garam masala complete the nose. A brief opener of rich toffee and tangy citrus is overrun with a piquant, acidic rush and nippy alcohol flare. It's actually light in texture, and a largely absorbing experience, ending on some dusty marshmallow notes, though never losing the tanginess. Water accentuates the tangerine and mandarin but negates the mallow candy flavors. (264 bottles)