85

Score

The Glenrothes, 1998 vintage, 43%

Price: $55.00 Issue: Fall 2010 Reviewer: John Hansell

One thing I enjoy about these vintage releases are the differences in personality from one vintage to the next. This 1998 vintage follows shortly after the 1994, and while that one was elegant and bright in personality, this 1998 is more viscous and heavier in weight. It shows bright fruit (lemon, caramelized pineapple, tangerine), honeyed vanilla, and marzipan with a peppering of cinnamon and ginger. Perhaps the 1994 as an aperitif, and the 1998 a digestif? The 1998 is not nearly as post-prandial as, say, the 1972 vintage, but it has more weight than the 1994 vintage. Still, if I had to choose between the 1994 and 1998, my nod goes to the 1994 for its elegance and drinkability.