The stills ran cold in this lost Islay distillery at Ballygrant in the 1860s. Excitingly acrid smoke on the nose: like fireworks or the smoking muzzle of a rifle mingled with summer lemons and crunchy green pear. Poached pears in cream, greengages, and peppercorns meet a stealthy, sour gooseberry takeover. Fades to a chalky, sour fruit plateau before a chili heat finish.