88

Score

The Sovereign (distilled at Cambus) 40 year old 1975, 57.7%

Price: $297 Issue: Fall 2015 Reviewer: Jonny McCormick

This potent grain whisky from a refill hoggie bears ripe pears, green apples, vanilla sugar, polished horse chestnuts, and a waft of acetone. Neat, there is sweet fudge, runny caramels, and heat, but natural dilution dissipates the sweetness to boiled candy with faint cocoa. At this strength, it really takes water generously, illuminating fruitiness and softening the heat. Dry, sweet vanilla pricked with orange seals the finish. There's a sweet spot where this is deliciously drinkable. (114 bottles)£190