80

Score

The Sovereign (distilled at Invergordon) 50 year old, 42.9%

Price: $300 Issue: Winter 2016 Reviewer: Jonny McCormick

You can smell the time that has elapsed on this dark, chestnut dram. Glimpses of vanilla essence, mushroom gills, blueberries, aged balsamic vinegar, and beef stock. Flavors swirl around charred meat juices, walnut oil, chewed leather, rancio, tobacco leaf, tree bark, black toffee, and licorice root. A slight creamy salvation tugs it from its oaky and savory comfort zone. The moderate finish is awash with Brazil nut and bitter coffee grounds. Forget about adding water. An ancient, fragile grain whisky. (K&L Wines exclusive)