76

Score

Virgil Kaine High Rye Bourbon, 45%

Price: $35 Issue: Fall 2015 Reviewer: Geoffrey Kleinman

Wood tannins are an interesting thing; used correctly, they can help create spice, depth, and complexity, as well as define a spirit's character. Unrestrained, tannins can wreak havoc. That's what's happened with this whiskey. Sharp, unfinished wood defines a nose that is raw in every sense. A thin entry struggles to present maple and caramel before a heavy blast of oak tannins decimates them. Those tannins define the rest of the taste experience, including a sour and bitter finish.