Wemyss Malts ‘Lemon Grove' (distilled at Cragganmore) 1989 (bottled 2011), 46%

Cragganmore is a whisky that typically needs time before it starts to get going and which then goes through many changes on its journey to its complex, layered apogee. Here it is at a slightly contradictory midpoint. The nose is fragrant and fruity: apricots, stewed apple, and yes, lemon; and, with water, a hint of smoke. The palate meanwhile shows more of the earthy depth and sloe berry richness that will slowly emerge. A pleasing dram, nonetheless. £75