Lagavulin 12 year old is no stranger to Diageo’s annual Special Releases series, appearing every year since 2002. The 2023 expression takes a traditional Special Releases attribute to Lagavulin—cask strength bottling—and adds a touch of secondary maturation in Don Julio Añejo tequila casks. In true Lagavulin fashion, it’s a peaty dram that offers much more than smoke. The nose is bright and briny, bursting with lime zest, seaweed, a hint of soapiness, and cooked agave. On the palate, plum and punchy citrus meld with baked apple, vanilla sweetness, and minerality, making for a balanced whisky that sails away on a lengthy, spicy finish. —Julia Higgins